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The region has a unique northerly climate that produces fantastic wines that go with just about anything that swims underwater. The longest river in France has vineyards along its entire length, carving its way through the chalky soils that provide perfect natural caves for cellars, and perfect for mushroom production too. I always enjoy visiting this region, even though it is usually in early February when the thought of tasting the new vintage in the cold cellars could be a little off-putting.
From Sancerre in the east, the river flows past Orleans and Angers to the region of Muscadet in the west. Vineyards line its banks and the gentle hills beyond.
Chenin Blanc, a popular variety in South Africa, is a hugely versatile grape that produces young fresh acidic wines in Anjou and Saumur, to deeply gold dessert wines that will live forever such as Bonnezeaux, to sparkling wines made in the traditional Champagne method.
Melon de Bourgogne is not well known in its own right, but it’s the grape behind the famous Muscadet, the light, fresh and acidic wine that is perfect with seafood and shellfish.
Sauvignon Blanc is the grape that put New Zealand on the international white wine scene. The Loire’s Sauvignons, the likes of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, have intense gooseberry and grassy characters with strong acidity.
Cabernet Franc, one of the trio that goes into Claret, comes into its own in the central Loire around Chinon and Bourgeuil. Here, its red wines are light with strong tannins and firm acidity, but with subtle hints of raspberry and herbs.
Gamay the famous grape of Beaujolais, creates light and intensely floral reds, with light tannins and flavours of strawberry and cherry.
Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé in the east produce some of the finest Sauvignons in the world. Steep slopes and old vines add a unique intensity to the wines.
In the centre of the region are the red producing regions of Chinon and Bourgeuil, then follow the river along to Anjou, Touraine and Saumur where the classy sparkling wines and long-lived Chenin-based whites are at their best. Further west again towards the Atlantic coast, the Muscadet region has gentle hills and wonderful whites for immediate drinking.
Due to the diversity of the regions, we work closely with a courtier, Charles Sydney, who finds the individual suppliers for us and makes sure the quality in the bottle is what we are looking for. He and his family live in a lovely house just outside Chinon with a wonderful cellar dug into the chalky hillside. He is well known in the region and his knowledge is amazing.
If you like dry whites then try a Muscadet. Often underrated, they are amazing with any type of seafood, and can be quite intense. The better ones are ‘sur lie’ which means they are kept on the lees of the yeast before bottling, giving a zingy spritz to the wine.
If you love Sauvignon, then you will find the wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé to your taste. Very dry with intense gooseberry notes. Sauvignons from the Touraine region will be almost as good and kinder on the pocket.
For the summer you cannot beat a rosé from the Anjou, usually a little sweet but wonderful served chilled.